A silky-smooth ice cream with a nutty fragrance and rich pistachio flavor.
But in truth, all of those articles and recipes were a byproduct of my quest for this, the best pistachio ice cream—made from fresh pistachios, not pistachio paste.
Which brings us back to the idea of an ice cream made from whole pistachios, whose flavor and freshness are easy to assess when buying them raw in bulk. Good raw pistachios will look plump and green beneath their skins; they'll smell aromatic and fresh, with a firm consistency when gently squeezed, and a rich pistachio flavor even prior to peeling and toasting.
But in an ice cream or gelato served at temperatures below freezing, the flavor of raw pistachios will seem muted, translating into something vegetal and dull, like wet lawn clippings. So in recipes like this one, pistachios benefit from being slowly toasted at low heat, both to drive off any water absorbed during the blanching process and to develop some nutty complexity.
This can take anywhere from three to four hours, depending on the accuracy of the temperature dial on a given oven, as well as how much water the pistachios absorbed during the blanching process . With or without these"bonus" ingredients, bring the dairy to a simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently until the first bubbles appear and the cream begins to foam. Immediately take the saucier off heat, cover tightly, and set aside until cool to the touch. I'll typically refrigerate the pistachio-milk between 12 to 36 hours. For me, 24 hours is the sweet spot for both convenience and flavor, but you've got plenty of wiggle room either way.
I start the custard off over medium-low heat, stirring and scraping constantly with a flexible, heat-resistant spatula until it feels warm to the touch. After that, I can safely increase the heat to medium in order to cook the custard through, stirring and scraping all the while. Extreme precision isn't required for a step like this; I usually cook the custard until I can see visible wisps of steam rising up, but 165°F is a safe target to aim for.
If your liquor cabinet doesn't seem to have any good options, or if you abstain from alcohol, there's no need to add a thing. The ice cream may be a little harder straight from the freezer, and a touch less aromatic, but these aren't make or break details.
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