Meet BraveTart's dream pistachio ice cream.
But in truth, all of those articles and recipes were a byproduct of my quest for this, the best pistachio ice cream—made from fresh pistachios, not pistachio paste.
At least in my neck of the woods, pistachio paste is exclusively a mail-order item, while good quality pistachios are easy to find from local Greek and Indian grocery stores, as well as in specialty food shops and the bulk aisle of a particularly well-stocked supermarket. Of course, when buying whole, fresh pistachios, most of those chores fall to me, and I can't lie—peeling and blanching pistachios can be a real drag.
I do this by lightly coating the blanched and peeled pistachios with a little oil, preferably pistachio oil* since that gives me a chance to layer in more flavor, but neutral oils will get the job done. This can take anywhere from three to four hours, depending on the accuracy of the temperature dial on a given oven, as well as how much water the pistachios absorbed during the blanching process .
When the toasted pistachios are cool enough to handle, give them a rough chop and combine them with milk and cream in a 3-quart saucier. If you're working with American pistachios, or Sicilian pistachios that are slightly past their prime but too good to toss, add a small sprig of rosemary and a thin strip of lime or orange zest into the pot. These aromatics contain a compound called alpha-Pinene, which is found in toasted pistachios.
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