“His historical knowledge of craft brewing in Alberta and in Canada and the US is invaluable. He’s definitely someone we go to for the history of craft brewing here, or insights into what’s going on.”
In 2017, the PBS affiliate in Austin approached him about doing a bigger, international version of “The Beer Diaries.” Zeschuk had been retired from BioWare for five years by then; running a company had run him into the ground, especially the near-constant travel that kept him from his wife and children in Edmonton.
Alberta is an ideal place to brew. The province’s barley, one of its main agricultural exports, is among the world’s best. Hops grow like weeds, though the market for the Alberta-grown product isn’t nearly as established as that for hops from neighboring British Columbia and the northwestern United States.
For three years, he helmed the ASBA. During that time the provincial government removed the minimum regulation requirement, paving the way for the industry to take off. Today there are about 130 craft brewers in Alberta, and the number continues to rise. That sort of pragmatism is easier when you have the kind of financial security that comes from selling your first company for hundreds of millions of dollars. But equally critical to Zeschuk’s success is his ready embrace of a challenge.
“He’s very open to my opinion,” Monk says. “He’s very willing to hear me out if I disagree with him. He very much encourages you to speak your mind and be the manager. He has ideas and certainly has things he wants to see, but he is very open to allowing me to run the brewery how I see fit, which not everyone is able to do in this world.”
The strip mall Zeschuk bought in Ritchie was home to one of Edmonton’s best butcher shops, Acme Meat Market. Zeschuk had never shopped there but when he learned that one of the butchers, Christine Sandford, was a trained chef, he reached out. Sandford was working at Acme to get better at cutting meat, something she’d already done during a brief stint at Dario Cecchini’s butcher shop in Tuscany. What she really wanted was to run her own restaurant..
Pre-pandemic, it was a challenge to get a reservation at Biera. That hasn’t changed. But while the restaurant has been a staple on“We’re not your typical ‘brewery restaurant’ by any stretch—we don’t do burgers and wings, popcorn, peanuts,” Zeschuk says, laughing. “Almost every month we get hate mail from people calling us pretentious, saying, ‘You should be sticking with the regular stuff.’”
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