From Clubwear to Costume, Meet the Collective Moving Berlin’s Fashion Agenda Forward

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From Clubwear to Costume, Meet the Collective Moving Berlin’s Fashion Agenda Forward
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From clubwear to costume, meet the collective moving Berlin's fashion agenda forward.

It’s a humid July evening in Berlin. Under the watchful Eye of Horus that looms above the central hall of super-club Berghain, a crowd of dancers sit in a concentric circle, moving their arms to the steady drone of Turkish singer Emre Demirtas’s wavering vocals. Their chests are laid bare and long, while golden skirts are tightly bound around their waists. Around them, audience members are crowded in hushed reverie. The air smells of burned sage and damp concrete.

Six months ago, the collective caught the eye of American choreographer Richard Siegel, who has previously worked with left-of-center artists such as producer DJ Haram and bodywear designer Chromat on performances for his dance company Ballet of Difference. UY’s forthright ethos of genderless clothing intrigued Siegel, with his interest in countercultural dance dovetailing neatly with the brand’s own visual language.

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