The Givenchy resort 2024 and men’s pre-spring 2024 collections skewed elegant and dressy, with dollops of glamour and grit.
Matthew M. Williams was in Tokyo about a month ago, and spent considerable time in a store in the Koenji district dedicated to vintage military clothing, “geeking out” over all the small, functional details and specialized designs. He also stocked up big time on basics after chancing upon a seller of deadstock T-shirts, whose fabric quality and fit were exceptional.
“People think clothing can be infinitely reproduced, but there are so many factors that make it special,” he said. “Fabric comes from the earth, so you can’t have the same fabric every single year. The yield of the raw materials is different, the weather is different. Machines break, factories close.”
In a similar vein, many people might adore ’90s concert T-shirts without realizing why. Williams explained that most were made via tubular knitting, a production technique employed for large quantities — and they fit different from T-shirts with side seams. That T-shirt conversation speaks to Williams’ approach to collections, hinged more on evolving brand codes and carefully calibrated product design than storytelling or seasonal themes. It also illustrates that the things we like to wear everyday are often “just so hard to find,” he lamented.“I love to have things in the collection that are extreme and propose a new silhouette and a fashion message.
Williams was wearing an Army green T-shirt and silver Apple headphones when he dialed in on Zoom, but the night before he had donned a suit for a gala at the Pompidou Centre. No surprise: He asks a lot from the tailoring he wears and designs.
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