A hearty soup with a sweet and sour finish.
Some dishes are extravaganzas of meat, and some are unbridled celebrations of vegetables. And then there's borscht, which is decisively both. That makes it one of the best winter meals in my home, where my wife, Kate, pretty much wants only vegetables, while I often crave at least a little meat . Borscht is so chock-full of an exciting array of both that neither of us ever feels deprived.
As for the meats, your options are equally varied. My recipe calls for beef short ribs, fresh pork belly, beef marrow bones, and ham hocks , but you could use all sorts of long-cooking cuts, like brisket, pork ribs, beef chuck, and shanks. They're all stewing meats that are rich in collagen, a tough connective tissue that breaks down into silky gelatin with heat and time, creating a rich, flavorful broth.
To finish the soup, I sauté a new batch of diced aromatics—onion, celery, carrots, and garlic—in fat until they're tender. You could use vegetable oil here, but you should end up with a generous amount of richly flavored rendered beef and pork fat on the surface of the broth. I skim that off and use some of it for sautéing, then add the broth back to the pot and bring it to a simmer.
I love beets and wanted a very beet-forward soup, so using raw beets immediately became my preferred method. If you're not the biggest fan of beets, though, this may be a reason to opt for roasting them first.
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