How sexiness and softness transformed Paris menswear:
Sies Marjan
, who made a double debut, both showing on the Paris schedule, and presenting their first full menswear collection. Compared to Ludovic's steambath, however, creative director Sander Lak’s Paris outing offered a slower simmer, the nude male body’s vulnerable glory implied rather than put on brazen display.
The most subversive moments of his show came in the subtle undoings of garments and silhouettes one might otherwise have associated with a typically macho sexiness. Baby pink button-down shirts had white and blue stripes, giving a subtle nod to the vernacular of city boy suiting, with the similarities ending there -- the traditional collar subbed-out for a bateau-neck, the top two buttons undone to offer a flash of chest.
. The silken touch of the Sies Marjan softboy is nothing new; it is, after all, for his sultry dresses in richly-hued silks that the New York-based designer has earned his reputation., Kim Jones -- a full year on from his appointment as the artistic director of menswear -- adopted a similar approach, as far as integrating womenswear motifs into the collection was concerned. There were, however, certain restrictions that came into play.
It’s abundantly clear that a sea change has taken place in regards to how fashion views its ideal man. He is unafraid to experiment and draws strength from his ability to show a certain softness. But just how well will these delicate new proposals on new male sexiness translate to the streets? Will we be seeing sculpted softboys sauntering down Broadway Market in towel skirts and dropped shoulder shirts come July 2020? Fingers crossed, but it’s not something we’ll be hedging our bets on.
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