In the 2010s, the New York food world became more thoughtful, more vibrant, and far more enjoyable. asytsma looks back at how New York’s bakeries, cafés, restaurants, and bars became better places to eat — and work
This essentially perfect pasta — Lilia’s mafaldini with pink peppercorn and Parmigiano — debuted in 2016. Photo: Liz Clayman On a recent, gray afternoon, I stood on a Carroll Gardens sidewalk and mentally debated the merits of the pizza slice I’d just ordered. The lightly tanned crust was pleasantly sour, and surprisingly sturdy, easy to fold yet resistant to unwelcome droopage. The sauce was tangy, fruity, and thick, clinging impressively to the crust.
Though we are now surrounded by foodie-ism in all its forms — Netflix shows and David Chang podcasts and, yes, slice joints that tout the number of days that their dough ferments — it all somehow feels less irksome, too. The temptation is to call this the decade that foodies won, but in thinking about it more, it strikes me that nobody won any kind of culture war.
At night, out in the bar, people dance in place, drink amber cocktails, listen to music that bounces smartly between rock and hip-hop. They wait endlessly for tables to clear. Their faces — mustachioed, unlined or dusted with glitter, behind geek glasses or Edie-style eyeliner — are filled with anticipation. At the tables in back, as they stare down shins and stomachs, sticky bits and syllabubs, they look a little scared.
I am also thinking of the chef Missy Robbins, who went from running two high-end Italian restaurants in tourist-heavy Manhattan neighborhoods at the dawn of the decade to running two far more accessible, democratic, and popular restaurants in Brooklyn. In 2016, Robbins opened the relatively casual Lilia in a Williamsburg garage, and in 2018, she opened Misi, where the menu is dedicated to single-vegetable apps, deceptively simple pastas, and, for dessert, glass cups of gelato.
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