Pickled sunchokes, fried ginger, and plenty of citrus add brightness to winter produce, no matter the weather
No chef wants to open a restaurant in winter. Instead, you want to burst on the scene, edible flowers at the ready, when the markets are overflowing with gorgeous produce. Unfortunately, I haven't been so lucky: The last three restaurants I opened were all supposed to debut in summer, but each was delayed until long after the fields had turned brown. And now, as I prepare to open a fourth restaurant in San Francisco,, it's the same story all over again—another winter opening.
The zest and segments of four types of citrus enliven shaved fennel and charred squid in this winter salad.Here's one trick: Use a ton of acid to add brightness and tenderize denser ingredients. In my beet salad, I use tangy yogurt and sweet orange juice to lighten things up. And for my fennel and citrus salad, a whole lemon is blanched and whizzed in a blender for a tart-bitter purée.
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