How to Can Tomatoes

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How to Can Tomatoes
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Our guide to tomato preservation involves a little lesson in physics.

Sure, I've tossed around the word"canning" in those articles, but I haven't really explained it. Well, here we go, friends. The most powerful tool in your preservation toolbox, the one that gives you the ability to defy the known limits of physics:* water-bath or pressure canning. Even if, like me, you just squeaked by in Mr. Klabunde's junior-year physics class, I promise, the power of temperature and pressure is at your fingertips.

In order to survive and thrive, most microbes need a handful of things: food, water, oxygen, and an environment that's in a hospitable temperature and pH range. Canning methods perform a couple of specific tasks. First, they raise the internal temperature of the contents of a jar, killing microbes in the process. Second, they force out air and gases from the jar, which creates a vacuum that causes the lid to seal tight, preventing air from getting back in.

At room temperature and sea level, the pressure outside the pot is 1 atmosphere . The pressure inside the pot is the same, 1 atm. The pressure in the jar is 1 atm, because your jar was open to the room before putting the lid on. That's all pretty straightforward—no"Delta P," as we engineers would say; no difference in pressures.

As for the pressure canner, at room temperature and sea level, it too starts out at a pressure of 1 atm . When the pressure canner is heated, the pressure inside increases to about 2 atm . The pressure canner vessel is strong and holds that pressure inside the pot. The inside of the jar is at 2 atm because it's venting into the inside of the pressure canner; they must be equal, or the jar would break.

In a nutshell, there's no way to regulate the pressure on a multi-cooker, so don't try it. The National Center for Home Food Preservation was so alarmed by the popularity of using these for canning thatThe reverse is also generally true; that is, it's best to use pressure canners for canning only and not cooking. Canning folks tend to abide by this rule, in part because cleaning chicken cacciatore out of a vent hole is no fun.

Traders spread tomatoes throughout the region, but it was the Aztec alliance, which ruled Mexico and Central America between the 13th and 15th centuries, that began hybridizing wild plants to bring us closer to our modern tomatoes. When the Spanish conquistadors brought the treasures of the New World back to Europe, tomatoes were among the looted prizes.

Because science is based on researching crazy questions like this, food scientists have investigated and come up with a deeply detailed, highly accurate, and very scientific answer: They're kinda acidic, but still not quite enough, especially if you're using heirlooms and mixing a bunch of them together. Very frustrating!

Here's the phrase that makes my eye twitch and stare off into the distance like Clint Eastwood:"My mom/grandma/Aunt Bertha/Uncle Stinky didn't add acid or pressure-can their tomatoes, and we never got sick." Great. Good. I'm glad you're still with us among the living.

Today's recipe and methods focus on canning whole tomatoes using two different techniques: hot-water-bath canning and pressure canning. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages for the home preservationist. I know—everyone hates doing this, but you have to do it. The skins tend to have a bitterness and toughness that affect the final taste of your product. Prize-winning tomatoes are always skinned.at one end of each tomato, then drop them into boiling water for about one minute. Remove and transfer to an ice bath to cool. When they've cooled enough for handling, slide the skins off and plop the naked tomatoes into a bowl.

Here's another benefit of using a pressure canner: You can add things to those tomatoes. If you'd like to do Italian-style whole tomatoes with a garlic clove, onion, oregano, and basil leaves—go for it! By using the pressure canner, you're already processing the food as a low-acid item, regardless of the added acidification. Use of a boiling-water canner is predicated on the food being acidified, so anything that lowers the acidity pushes the tomatoes into the danger zone.

Jars may tip over as you try to fish them out—don't panic and stick your hand into the boiling water! I've had to stop people in my classes from doing that. Just pick up the jar with the lifter, and set it down to cool. A jar that's tipped over may not seal properly, but all is not lost! Stick it in the fridge, and use it within a week.

Let's talk for a moment about the two styles of pressure canners here: weighted-gauge and dial-gauge canners. Most pressure canners have a weighted gauge. This is a heavy metal disk, two inches in diameter by half an inch wide, with three equidistant holes drilled into the edge. Each hole has a slightly different size bore and is marked with the number 5, 10, or 15. Those numbers describe the psi the canner will reachatmospheric pressure.

Did you catch the lingo word,"vented"? A step in the process that's specific to pressure canning requires that you bring the canner, with its lid locked in place, to a boiling temperature—enough to see the steam come out of the vent in a steady stream for 10 whole minutes.

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