It's the besto!
Was there a difference? Yes, of course. But what shocked me was the degree of difference. Pitted against the Thai granite set and the Italian one, the shortcomings of my ceramic one were stark. It didn't just not do a good job; it did an unacceptable job.
The Thai granite mortar and pestle did a much better job, and in a pinch it can work. But it still didn't come close to the effectiveness of the Italian marble mortar with the large wooden pestle. That large pestle head was perfect for efficiently smashing the garlic to paste, and the pine nuts, too. The basil yielded under it in a fraction of the time and broke down more fully, the result of excellent shearing forces under the broad wooden pestle head.
To find out, I pitted a bottle of pricey Ligurian oil against a months-old jumbo tin of cheapo, all-purpose olive oil that we use in the test kitchen for everyday tasks. I made two equal batches of pesto, with the only difference being the oil. If you use an absolutely awful, rancid oil, or a very, very spicy, aggressive one, those differences will be more apparent. But as long as you're using a decent, somewhat mild olive oil, your pesto is going to be good; if you feel like using an even higher-quality, not-too-spicy oil, whether Ligurian or not, it may be subtly better., Pecorino Romano, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
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