WangJia in San Gabriel deliciously reasserts the place of Shanghainese cooking among L.A.'s mix of regional Chinese cuisines.
The menu at WangJia in San Gabriel spans nearly 150 items. It can be an overwhelming document of stir-fries in dry, fiery or gently sauced styles; soup and noodle options by the dozens; and micro-surveys of several regional Chinese cuisines. Yet there is a shortcut to a focused, gratifying meal.
Recent meals at WangJia remind me that the varied, often subtle cooking of Shanghainese traditions have their place in the mix. My conversations with the staff around what to order always end with their one emphatic recommendation: xian rou cai fan, fried rice with salt pork and greens.As with many sustaining comforts in the global canon, its ingredients number a handful and the technique is everything. Diced cubes of pork sizzle in a wok’s carbonized inferno, aided by a splash of oil or lard.
WangJia sits in the center of a strip mall, flanked by Bubble Republic tea shop on one side and D’ange bakery on the other. Luo took over the space, previously occupied by Q38 Noodle House, in 2019. Like many business owners, Luo relied on carryout and delivery to muddle through the impossible months of 2020 that she couldn’t have foreseen.
Lion’s head meatballs, another defining pork dish, comes in its most classical form: several coarse, enormous orbs, the meat coarsely chopped yet utterly lush, draped in cabbage leaves and bathed in a brothy, lightly thickened sauce. Dialed-back, gingery spicing reinforces the dish’s remarkable lightness.
Tiny, crystalline shrimp stir-fried with longjing — the prized, nutty-vegetal green tea, also known as Dragonwell, whose leaves are plucked in spring when they’re still razor-thin buds — is another regional essential, and it’s hard to find in the United States. WangJia makes the dish minus the longjing. It might arguably veer into too subtle for some palates.
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