National politicians ignore them and local ones deceive them
market in Ambon, the capital of the Indonesian province of Maluku, is a riotous affair. Stalls sprawl from the pavement into the road. Shouting over the screech and rattle of traffic, vendors and customers haggle over bags of spices and fresh-cut bunches of bananas. The smell of durians and barbecued fish hangs in the air. Amid the hubbub, a group of vendors finds time to talk politics.
Poor public services, partly due to meagre funding, amplify resentment. In remote bits of Maluku schools lack textbooks and classrooms; teachers are often anyone from the village with a high-school diploma. On some islands locals have to get in a boat even to collect fresh water. Moluccans are aghast when they see photos of Jakarta’s highways and high-rises. “We are being left behind,” laments Iqbal Kumkelo, a student.
In theory a strong local government should help counter the sense of disenfranchisement. In 1999 Indonesia started a process of decentralisation, partly to sap support for the country’s various separatist movements, including a largely dormant one in Maluku. Provincial and local governments have accrued ever more powers. They now account for half of all government spending.
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