Jean Arnault on Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Spin Time Air Timepiece and Why Simplicity Is Key

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Jean Arnault on Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Spin Time Air Timepiece and Why Simplicity Is Key
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“It’s a step toward James Bond’s watch,” said the luxury house executive ahead of the watch's reveal.

A press on the crown’s pusher, reveals why, unlike its Spin Time brethren, its LV 68 caliber seems to rest against a bottom dial with a circular grain — this hides an electronic module controlling the ring of 12 light-emitting diodes concealed under the flange of the dial, each pointing to an hour cube. Illumination is on demand, lasting three seconds or until the pusher is released.

Ahead of the launch, he sat down with WWD to talk about what the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum represents, and why simplicity is key in high horology.Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Absolutely. Both have their place, separately and within a collection. As this timepiece shows, even within the same product. Over time, I think that’s a concept we’ll be pursuing. We worked for over two years on this watch and I believe there is a very promising future [bringing mechanical movements and electronics] together. It’s a step toward James Bond’s watch, where you press a button and you see a purely digital display and making those kinds of watches in the physical world.

What’s fascinating about watchmaking is that creations that seem so simple are the hardest to execute, even compared to more [elaborate complications].Market research shows that clients today are increasingly looking for watches that are easy to use and fool-proof, where you can’t break something if you wind it the wrong way or change the date at the wrong moment. In a “perpetual quantum” timepiece, if you change dates around midnight you can really wreck the movement.

The three Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours unveiled alongside the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum.I had the opportunity to spend a bit of time in the division in January [2021], as part of my discovery of the different métiers of the house, and of the group. The [watches] division interested me in particular due to its size, compared to [Louis] Vuitton as a whole, and the people who work there.

WWD: Given your background in engineering, and your experience in the innovation department of Tag Heuer, were you tempted to go toward a more technical approach?That’s a field I’m still very interested in — I did my master’s thesis on the Tag Heuer carbon balance spring — and is in part what led me to Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division. We have the opportunity to work on designs that don’t have anything similar to the rest of the watch industry.

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