Satisfyingly salty and comforting, especially as a midnight snack.
2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil, divided4 scallions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced Freshly ground black pepper1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and fine stems If using day-old rice, transfer to a medium bowl and break rice up with your hands into individual grains before proceeding. Place kimchi in a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl and squeeze out excess liquid. Reserve liquid and finely chop kimchi.
Heat 1/2 tablespoon oil in a wok over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add Spam and cook, tossing and stirring frequently, until well browned and starting to crisp. Add chopped kimchi and onion and cook, stirring and tossing regularly, until vegetables are softened, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Add another 1/2 tablespoon oil to wok. Increase heat to high and heat until smoking. Add half of rice and cook, stirring and tossing, until rice is pale brown, toasted, and has a slightly chewy texture, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Repeat with another 1/2 tablespoon oil and remaining rice.
Return all rice to wok and press it up the sides, leaving a space in the middle. Add another 1/2 tablespoon oil to the space. Add scallions , garlic, and chili and cook, stirring gently, until lightly softened and fragrant, about 1 minute. Toss with rice to combine. Add onion, kimchi, and Spam mixture and toss to combine. Pour in reserved kimchi juice and season generously with black pepper. Add fish sauce, sesame oil, and cilantro . Toss everything to combine.
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