For their Alta Sartoria show dolcegabbana turned to the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, the second oldest operating public library in Europe.
Why? “The most important attribute for a gentleman is wisdom,” offered Domenico Dolce before the show: “We need to eat with our eyes and our ears and our brains the books, the music, and the art. This is the best food for self-improvement.”
As a venue in which to feast on culture, the Biblioteca Ambrosiana is very well provisioned. It was founded in 1609 by Milan’s Archbishop, Cardinal Borromeo, and is the second-oldest operating public library in Europe. It was the first to use a new-fangled system called bookshelves: on them boasts thousands of treasures that include an illuminated 5th-century edition of the, a bound manuscript of more than 1,000 pages of original drawings by Leonardo Da Vinci.
If there was a Dewey Decimal System for the classification of couture techniques, then many of its boxes would have been ticked in the collection that followed. After an opening look comprised of a cashmere cassocked homage to Borromeo himself, we saw a time-traveling portfolio of masculine clothing that mixed the sumptuous with the scholarly.
Interspersed with these more sober looks were scores of shining examples of the craft long studied by Dolce and Gabbana. Jackets, jerkins, and coats recreated artworks including that Caravaggio, the Leonardo, a Botticelli Madonna, and portraits by Moroni—an artist whose work the designers had become transfixed by while researching this collection—in handmadeand French-knot stitching.
As repositories of clothes-making knowledge, Dolce, Gabbana, and their hundreds of Alta Moda and Sartoria atelier artisans are already well equipped. According to Dolce, however, they will never stop learning: “Because experience is what improves you. And the more we improve the more we are able to give joy through what we know and discover.
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