Daily News | KPod review: Chef Peter Serpico gives the University City restaurant a new Korean identity
If you came expecting one of his famous duck legs torqued into a hot dog with meat glue — but with a Korean twist — you may be in for a surprise.
It’s been a long journey of awakening for Serpico, 40, who had little interest in his Korean heritage through young adulthood. His marriage to a Korean American woman in 2015, however, immersed him in that culture and its flavors, enveloping him in the embrace of his mother-in-law’s limitless banchan, black bean noodles and blue crabs simmered in spicy anchovy broth.
That the menu at Kpod is rooted more in Korean tradition than modernist invention is clearly a result of that personal awakening, one that began with, the ghost kitchen focused on delivery during its brief run whose preparations Serpico humbly referred to as “kinda Korean.” It says a lot about our dining evolution over the past two decades that a onetime showplace for the fleeting trend of Asian fusion food now hosts such an earnest rumination on identity and traditional Korean cooking. But this being a Starr production aiming to regularly fill 200 seats on Penn’s campus, there must still be overtures to a cross-cultural audience of varied tastes.
With a distinctive cuisine whose essence revolves around the balance of boldly fermented flavors and spice, with functional presentations involving blazing hot bowls, where is that one-size-fits-all line? The chefs have already been called-out by relatives for not bringing the soft tofu stew to the table still bubbling violently in a hot stone crock, as any traditional soondubu jiggae would: “It’s just not safe,” says Serpico.
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