The best kind of happy accident.
Two days after Christmas, while playing around with some leftover ricotta, I made a delicious mistake. The goal had been to make a batch of Italian ricotta cookies with a brown butter twist, but, thanks to some miscalculation, the experiment fell flat...literally. The cookie dough started out nice and thick, then puffed up beautifully in the oven, but seconds later, it collapsed and spread into a paper-thin puddle of bubbling goo.
When I came back to clean up my mess, I found the cookies had cooled enough to turn snappy around the edges, with centers that were slightly squishy to the touch. Out of idle curiosity, I took a bite, and it felt like mainlining brown butter—an almost shocking hit of nutty richness. The cookie was all toasty and crisp around the edges, yet unbelievably soft and chewy at the same time, an amazing feat of contrast for a cookie so thin.to be sure it wasn't a fluke.
My preference is for a high-quality, part-skim commercial ricotta—for baking, it's hard to beat the balance of a factory formulation. That formulation, however, is almost laughably different from brand to brand., which is usually more of a farmer's cheese, can be especially variable—its water, fat, and protein contents, not to mention its pH level, are all dependent on the specific ingredients and method involved.
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