Leonard Paris’ summer collection channeled the liberated bodies of the Seventies in a glittering collection peppered with aerobics details.
“Straight from the gym to the nightclub” might be a stretch, no pun intended, except for the sharpest fashion devotees. If guests sporting Leonard designs at today’s show were any indication, a luncheon would be a more likely destination. But Christine Phung has a knack for fusing the disparate demands of the house’s print-rich history and its need for renewal.
For spring, she looked to the Seventies, a time of liberated bodies but also the house’s heyday, opening with a leotard and fuchsia tights with a knitted T-shirt on top that was a dead ringer for Jennifer Beals in “Flashdance.” Jersey was therefore the key material of the season, both for a floor-skimming gown and for sportier pieces. A plunge into the house print archive provided Pointillist designs, wave motifs and of course, a pair of tropical florals.
As previous seasons have shown, Phung’s work is at its best when prints served to reinforce her judicious cuts. It was easiest to see how Leonard could graft into the here-and-now in yoga-inspired brassieres paired with a generously proportioned suit, in a light windbreaker or even one of those floaty goddess gowns.
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