Every year, dozens of Anchorage residents like Ratdawan Haywood venture to Twentymile River on the southernmost edge of the municipal boundary, in hopes of filling their freezers and fryers with slender, small silvery hooligan.
Ratdawan Haywood was the lone hooligan fisher in the Twentymile River area on the last day of May, trying her luck after being able to fill her five-gallon bucket several times the week prior.
Randy Guintu removes the old net from his dip net frame. He remembers growing up and going to Seward, Willow or Twentymile and hooligan being one of the first fish that young children are able to catch for themselves. Ooligan oil is a staple in Ruthie Constantine’s home. She moved to Anchorage in 2009 from Metlakatla, a Tsimshian community near Ketchikan in Southeast Alaska. She grew up eating hooligan and its oil – which is made by fermenting large batches of the fish before rendering the oil into different grades. Constantine said they get ooligan grease from Canada, where her tribe is originally from.
Constantine and her family often fish for friends and family who live back home in Metlakatla. When they visit, they bring two 50-pound freezer boxes on the plane with them. Then, starting with her grandma’s house, they go around the community with gallon bags full of fish for whoever wants or needs them.
Guintu and his family also grew up frying the hooligan fish whole. Guintu works in the survey field and has commercial fished in Cook Inlet.
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