This one's for all the banana-flavored Runt and Laffy Taffy lovers out there.
Some of the most fascinating conversations I’ve had with chefs, brewers, and distillers have been thanks to their ability to match individual flavor notes to specific chemicals, which makes sense when you think of the human mouth and nose as a chemical analysis laboratory. That framework has also helped me out my favorite flavor molecule, isoamyl acetate, which smells and tastes like bananas...just not the ones at your local supermarket.
Bananas were first introduced en masse to the US in the mid-1800s, and got a big cultural boost from thein Philadelphia, where bananas sold for 10 cents apiece. The most popular variety back then was called Gros Michel , and when banana candy–makers started developing artificial flavors, that was the model they used. Gros Michel bananas are rounder, squatter, and, crucially, richer in isoamyl acetate than the cultivars on supermarket shelves today.
Besides bananas and banana candies, isoamyl acetate is a common note you’ll find in beer , rum , and other alcoholic beverages. You’ve probably heard that the yeast that makes both booze and bread eats sugar to produce alcohol and carbon dioxide, but that’s not the whole story. Yeast can also consume amino acids, and when it does, esters are the result.
After the Gros Michel disaster, banana growers turned to a different variety, called the Cavendish, which is resistant to fusarium and has a thick skin that makes it easier to ship long distances. It also produces less isoamyl acetate and tastes less like the banana candies of old—bad news for rare birds like me. Today, the export market for bananas is about 90 percent Cavendish, Tripathi says.
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