Everyone should know about pacholas.
You’d think that meat tortillas would be the crown jewel of Mexican cuisine, revered in their most “authentic” forms and subject to all kinds of baroque manipulation by Instagram-happy chefs. Yet—the thin seasoned-meat patties of West-Central Mexico—are practically unknown, even within Mexico.
Pacholas are found primarily in the states of Jalisco and Guanajuato, and parts of Aguascalientes, Zacatecas, and Michoacán. I first came across them in Guanajuato City—it was the only dish I didn’t recognize at a nondescript café off the Jardín de la Unión. “Kids like them,” the waiter said, as if to steer me toward more impressive dishes.
They impressed me, though. The quick-fried beef patties were deeply flavored with chile and spices, and had a uniquely springy texture. I’ve since ordered them anytime I see them. I found variations in the charming town of Lagos de Moreno in the Jalisco highlands, at a fast-food mall in Aguascalientes City, and in Juchipila in southern Zacatecas, where they were calledand had puréed refried beans in the mix.
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