At Riofavara, Massimo Padova is on a mission to preserve the excellent grapes that time nearly forgot.
Padova comes by his concern over Sicily’s wine history honestly, born into a family of winemakers. “My great-grandfather was an old-generation winemaker,” he says, “then my grandfather and my father also dedicated themselves to viticulture, but in a different way from mine. I learned from them the style of patience and knowing how to wait, then I also put my desire to bet and do difficult things.
“This tasting made me turn on a lightbulb,” Padova says, “because in three or four samples, I found some characteristics that today’s traditional vines are unable to develop: elegance, freshness, Sicilian character and kindness, without neglecting structure.” Recovering that Sicilian wine typicity drives Padova to experiment with obscure but promising grapes today. “I believe the recovery of some autochthonous varieties is essential in order to have types that are markedly pleasant and unrepeatable,” he says. And there’s something else in his search, an urgency entirely modern. “Moreover,” he adds, “some of these are varieties that are able to withstand such an extreme climate due to heat and drought, to obtain very pleasant wines—appreciable.
Three white varieties, especially, are responding well in his vineyards in the face of the heat: Il Recunu, Il Cutrera and Rucignola. “I have tried other white-berried varieties,” he says, “but these are the best so far. I am also trying some red varieties, such as Orisi, which seems to have an extra gear, but it will take another three or four years to get the first wine.”Back in the winery’s gracious hospitality center, Padova starts pouring.
Of course, Padova’s production isn’t limited to the forgotten whites. He’s part of a large contingent of talented Sicilian winemakers reviving the reputation of Nero d’Avola, which got a little lost in the wilderness back in the late 1980s and the 90s, in a market taste for somewhat overripe and jammy reds. A trio he pours us—lively with acidity and structure—can’t be called lean exactly, because they’re full-bodied and satisfyingly extracted, but they are decidedly not overripe and jammy.
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