In a city with better tacos, pancakes, meatloaf, coffee and queso, the Austin export has to do better. It doesn’t, fedmanwalking writes in his review of Kerbey Lane Cafe's Alamo City location.
The menu includes fried chicken Benedict on a biscuit, buttermilk pancakes and breakfast potatoes at the Austin-based Kerbey Lane Cafe on San Antonio's Northwest Side.I saw an operation stretched thin, unsure of itself after two months in business.
But mostly I experienced food that neither honored nor built on the Austin legend that inspired it in the first place. You can’t build on a legend with meatloaf that tastes and eats like stuffing with all that filler. And how can you charge $3.99 for a single overcooked breakfast taco on a stiff commercial tortilla in a city that wakes up to handmade flour tortillas every day?Avocados have become Austin’s signature ingredient the same way California gets the avocado tag.
Writing captions for photos to go with this review, I confused chicken tortilla soup with chili. I had to go back to my notes to remind myself that this bowl of bitter brown and cheese was supposed to represent tortilla soup. A bacon cheeseburger includes two Wagyu beef patties, melted cheddar and bacon, served with a side of housemade potato chips, at the Austin-based Kerbey Lane Cafe on San Antonio's Northwest Side.Kerbey Lane failed two Diner 101 classes, the first with wagyu chicken-fried steak that tasted like breading from tip to tail, the meat inside so thin and overfried it splintered under a fork. But it’s wagyu, so it’s better, right? Not when all the marbling’s cooked out of it.
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