My Attempt to Earn the Respect of a French Soufflé

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My Attempt to Earn the Respect of a French Soufflé
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You must accept the soufflé dish the Universe gives you

Le soufflé. Photo: Madeleine Aggeler/Madeleine Aggeler Over Easy is a weekly food column by a 20-something woman who can barely cook an egg and just wants to learn how to throw together an elegant three-course meal for her friends.

My mother makes a cheese soufflé every Christmas Eve, because her mother had made a cheese soufflé every Christmas Eve before her. Despite her extensive yuletide soufflé experience however, she says it’s an art she’s still trying to master, and while I was in France, my parents spoke of a recent soufflé mishap of theirs in the same hushed, disappointed tone one might use to say their child dropped out of architecture school to pursue DJ-ing.

Next, we warmed a cup of whole milk in a small saucepan, and in a larger saucepan, melted 2 ½ tablespoons of butter. When the butter was all melted, my mom poured in 3 tablespoons of flour that I was supposed to whisk together until it lost its “raw taste.” I didn’t fully understand that directive, but my mom seemed to, and after about 3 minutes, she stuck her finger in the mixture, tasted, and declared it done.

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