A growing group of distillers wants to bring the values and language that unified natural winemakers to the largely industrial world of spirits. (via punch_drink)
A growing group of distillers wants to bring the values and language that unified natural winemakers to the largely industrial world of spirits.
Winemaker Ian Thorsen-McCarthy, owner of Behemoth Farm Winery in upstate New York, distilled his first spirit in 2012, when he was living in the Bay Area. At that point, he’d spent the previous three years in the cocktail world—in Nebraska and then at San Francisco’s Rich Table and Sharpshooter—and in natural wine, at Oakland’s Ordinaire.
Thorsen-McCarthy taught himself to make his own fruit-based eaux de vie by poring over old books, talking to distillers and experimenting, using his knowledge of the principles of natural wine as a guide. This meant insisting on sustainable farming and sourcing, native yeast fermentations and eschewing the use of chemical coloring and stabilizers.
For years, Thorsen-McCarthy had been seeking out—online and in person—like-minded people, including Thad Vogler, the founder of San Francisco’s Bar Agricole and a longtime proponent of spirits produced with a focus on place and transparency. Aside from Vogler and the ultrageeky peers he’d met on message boards, he didn’t have a community of people looking to understand what “natural” might mean in the context of distillation.
The manifesto may still be nearly unheard of outside arcane circles in rural Europe, but it’s quietly influential. Alsatian biodynamic winemaking icon andChristian Binner has signed it. If you’re lucky, you can snag one of his vintage-dated bottles of aged eaux de vie made from fruits like cherry, mirabelle plums and gewürztraminer grapes. In southwest France, the influential distiller and winemaker Laurent Cazottes has signed, too.
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