See every look from NIHL's Fall 2020 menswear collection.
Function has been at the crux of designer Neil Grotzinger’s work from his earliest collections. There were the ways he subverted it and the ways he put it to scandalous use . But tonight’s show was less about the perverse play of function, intention, and sexuality that ripples through a Nihl experience and more about dysfunction as the broadest concept. His most relied-on fastenings—zippers, laces, hooks and eyes—were rendered useless, cut into tiny strips on short-sleeve tees.
The impetus for this change was a shift in purpose. Whereas Grotzinger had previously looked to undermine traditional notions of masculinity, here he wanted to send up all things feminine. So there were models in high heels, floral accoutrements, and even a golden princess to close the show, fitted with a crystal tiara. Concurrent to that play on the feminine was another, more sinister theme: villainy.
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