Noksu Is a New Korean Restaurant in the New York City Subway

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Noksu Is a New Korean Restaurant in the New York City Subway
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Dae Kim is behind the restaurant’s 12-course tasting menu, which focuses largely on seafood.

If you head down the wrong set of stairs at the Herald Square subway station, you’ll miss it. Not your train, but

The restaurateurs Bobby Kwak and Joseph Ko have teamed up with executive chef Dae Kim—a 20-something who previously worked under—on the subterranean chef’s-counter spot, which boasts a mere 13 seats. Opening Friday, Noksu will have just two seatings nightly, during which you’re served both dinner and a show, as the kitchen team carves squab and tweezers tiny flowers onto the beautiful plates.

The 12-course menu is a stunning display, with the dishes plated to perfection and the servingware part of the story too. One of the earliest dishes is also one of the most exquisite: a sardine, aged in plum vinegar and sliced into four neat rectangles, served atop a potato crisp with Caesar emulsion and Castelfranco. The fish, heartier than your Caesar salad’s anchovy, is an umami-packed snack that prepares your palate for the larger dishes.

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