Carved from hundreds of layers of thinly sliced celery root, the celeriac shawarma at farm-to-table mecca Noma is a dish that took years to invent
, opened in a former warehouse along the canals of Copenhagen’s Christianshavn neighborhood in 2003, “fine dining” meant white tablecloths and caviar. Then-25-year-old chef René Redzepi completely upended the concept. His belief that truly one-of-a-kind culinary experiences could be achieved in an unpretentious setting using natural, locally sourced ingredients set a new course for the farm-to-table movement.
It was these travels, particularly working on a spit-grilled vegetarian main course inspired by the Mexican specialty tacosthat eventually led to the celeriac shawarma that is on the menu of the new Noma, which opened in 2018 as a collection of glass-sided buildings on the outskirts of Freetown Christiania.
“I thought to myself, why are we trying to serve a tasting menu with a little bit of everything as opposed to what’s really good when it’s available?” says Redzepi.
, out next month. Below, Redzepi and Mette Brink Søberg, Noma’s head of R&D, discuss how the celeriac shawarma came to be.When we start developing a new seasonal menu, we discuss ingredients, flavors, concepts, and textures. Our test kitchen is situated in a greenhouse in between the main building and the dining room and guest lounge. Outside is our garden, designed by Piet Oudolf.
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