Not drowning but suffocating

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Not drowning but suffocating
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  • 📰 TheEconomist
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Will a cruise-ship ban solve the issue of overcrowding in Venice? In 2017 1843mag asked what could improve the city’s prospects

ome cities you go to for the galleries, some for the restaurants, some for the nightlife. You visit Venice to stroll through the alleys, bridges and squares that make up the most beautiful public space in the world. The walk that is richest in architectural delights and historical significance follows the route from the Rialto Bridge to St Mark’s Square. The bridge was the hub of the trading empire that brought in the booty and paid for the city’s unique concentration of artistic masterpieces.

As the global middle class grows, and annual foreign holidays become routine, the world’s most popular destinations face a tourism tsunami. At present only 4% of the Chinese population, 55m people, own a passport. When passport ownership in China reaches the Japanese rate, 340m Chinese people will have passports; when it reaches the American rate, 450m will.

For tourists on tight budgets, this is an entirely sensible approach. For the city, it is disastrous. It means more people for less revenue, and drags Venice into a down-market spiral. So St Mark’s Square is jammed with day-trippers and dotted with– souvenir stands – and unlicensed hawkers of flowers, toys and even pigeon seed . A scruffy noticeboard, barely visible under stickers, chewing gum and grime, asks tourists to behave respectfully and not to picnic on the steps.

Outside the Arsenale, an ancient military base just a few minutes’ walk from San Marco, Paolo Lanapoppi, a retired poetry professor, bemoans the collapse of the neighbourhood. The last bakery is about to go the way of the fish shop; the old retailers are being replaced by souvenir shops selling identical imported masks, glass trinkets and scarves. “It’s a cemetery,” he says.

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