Four emerging brands you won’t see during fashion week.
New York Fashion Week’s truncated schedule now makes it harder than ever for emerging brands to generate buzz within a saturated market. Young talents are seeking new means of recognition, going directly to consumers and focusing on their craft. Here, WWD spotlights four promising young brands you won’t see during the fashion week rounds.Yoshiyuki Minami is a textile artist whose work through genderless label Manonik can be seen as a critique of the current fashion system.
His process relies heavily on the loom where, at any given moment, he’ll pull a fringe or leave the ends of the spool out to create cool yet random textures. A prime example is a blazer with textural surface of randomly pulled out threads and splashes of colorful textile paint. Naturally, Minami’s original intent was to create one-off garments. Interest from boutiques has him debating whether or not multiple runs of each look is feasible, or aligns with the brand’s fundamental codes.
The name Common Odds is a play on contrasts — steeped in everyday pieces with little twists, feminized men’s wear items, and overall clean take on experimentation. Nothing is specifically feminine, which opens the door to eventually launching men’s wear, which Jung sees as the only reason she would hold a fashion week presentation in today’s saturated market — to draw in as many interested eyes as possible.
As a socially conscious consumer and vegetarian, Jung is also a proud purveyor of vegan leather. Hers may be some of the chicest options in the market, including a trucker jacket and white slightly curved trousers cut in Italian vegan leather, and a fitted leather blazer in a Japanese one. Much like these brands, Ashlyn New York takes a modern approach to what Park describes as a feminine and playful line. Upon first glance at her spring 2020 range, clear standouts with a cool bent are the reworked shirting that play to the sophisticated side of experimentation. Now in her third season, she has established the line as a calling card for modern-luxe tailoring.
“I’m most excited about the freedom of design,” Park said during a preview, adding: “Working for other brands it was really hard to express my designs. Here I can do whatever I want.” Upon graduation from the Maryland Institute College of Art, Liu cut her teeth at The Row and Thakoon. She initially launched her brand on the codes of innocence, romance and sexuality. Early items featured bondage straps, hidden zippers that played on the idea of restriction versus release, and hook-and-eye closures nodding to suspension. She garnered moderate press when Cardi B donned a sheer tulle duster for The Fader back in 2017.
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