World-renowned chef and a transcendent sesame paste lure visitor to beachfront getaways, traditional tastes in corner of the Caribbean
In a tiny Colombian beachfront town, a globally acclaimed chef was waxing poetic about a schmear., an influential ranking group owned by a British media giant — suggested the sesame paste known locally aswas one of many delicacies in the area that transcend mere taste, and soon I’d know why.
, has drawn accolades. But her roots trace back to the country’s Caribbean region, where she spent most of her childhood.— that bring together cooks from often forgotten and underresourced communities to prepare local dishes while cataloging and preserving as many traditional ingredients, recipes and techniques as possible.
I emerged from our talks with a culinary treasure map that would lead me on a quest from beachside grills to a palm-shaded islet to a green thatch-roofed house, the whole journey flavored with coconut, garlic, cassava, cheese and of course, sesame.
Although this clearly wasn’t the pure, unadulterated sesame paste in my marching orders, it was bedtime snacking perfection and an interesting conversation starter with the Dos Aguas co-founder Dania Bianuni, whom I’d asked about the dish. She explained that as relative newcomers to Rincón del Mar who hoped not to infringe on the community’s traditional restaurants, the hotel staff generally stuck to unorthodox preparations of the local staples.
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