100 Hands for Paolo Martorano Bespoke brings the former’s handmade shirts into the latter’s Manhattan atelier.
That’s the short story of how the New York bespoke operation linked up with the Amsterdam-based shirtmaker whose wares are produced in India with an exceptionally high level of handmaking. And it marks the first time that Martorano will offer a co-branded product—each shirt will bear a “100Hands for Paolo Martorano Bespoke” label.
In contrast to Martorano’s existing bespoke shirt program, which is machine-made in New York and relies on hand-drawn paper patterns, the shirts from 100Hands will be classified as made-to-measure. But in addition to offering more than 20 styles of collar and 14 varieties of cuff, Martorano says that 100Hands allows for a far greater range of fit adjustments to its block.
“The collar is the most noticeable,” Martorano says. “The handsewn collar stands more upright and has a more defined expression. We can also add fullness with sheering—a way to add extra fullness with gathers on the seams—which affords the customer even more flexibility.”The international partnership comes on the cusp of 100Hands’ 10anniversary.
Akshat’s family in India had been involved in the textile business for over 150 years, and the family firm maintained a workshop that employed a small team of tailors. Seeing an opportunity to export traditional handmaking abroad, the duo built out a modern shirtmaking facility in Armitsar, India, with the understanding that it would take 50 people—and the sum total of their hands—to make each shirt. With that understanding, 100Hands was launched in February of 2014.
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