About Time: Fashion and Duration, the metmuseum Costume Institute’s spring 2020 exhibition, was also on display at these SS20 shows:
). A note to callout culture: An homage is different from a line-to-line copy. It’s important to look at fashion in context and keep in mind that not all references are conscious but speak to deeper truths and needs. Take the bold, broad shoulders that have made a giant comeback. Whether they reference those of the 1980s or of the 1940s, they more generally stand as a symbol of strength and empowerment.
Some designers chose to century-hop, reveling in the Rococo flourishes of the 18th century or the curved silhouette of the 1910s, both of which were created with body-controlling underpinnings: corsets, hoops, and boning. AtDemna Gvasalia managed to bridge future and present. Models’ faces were rearranged via prosthetic augmentation, and the archive was mined, resulting in a series of what looked like hoop-skirted gowns without the rigid cage beneath.
is a 1778 print by George Paston that caricatures the convertible-like 18th-century calash bonnet worn to protect enormous and elaborate hairdos. Similarly imposing is the multipurpose head covering from the spring 2020 collection of Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. Photos: The Print Collector / Print Collector / Getty Images; Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com; Kevin Mazur Archive / WireImageby François Boucher, 1759; Rick Owens spring 2020; Madonna in an 18th-century-style costume at the MTV Video Music Awards, 1990
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