Bill Addison names seven favorite restaurants he's reviewed so far in 2023, plus our Summer of Ice Cream finale and L.A. Times Food Bowl details
Restaurant openings feel accelerated and ceaseless in Los Angeles. I see plenty of notices for Italian and sushi newcomers, and for places serving cuisines of all kinds banking on the enduring notion of comfort.
What do I look for as a review subject when faced with countless choices? Without committing myself to any one set of criteria, I look for places where the menus don’t look like carbon copies of similar restaurants, and often where there’s a narrative behind the cooking that conveys something about, or contributes something fresh to, the story of Los Angeles.becomes my focus, I’m looking back at the reviews I’ve written so far in 2023 and which restaurants linger in my thoughts.
I’ve listed the following standout restaurants in alphabetical order rather than ranking them, though I do point out my very favorite among them. For a deeper dive, the name of each place includes the link to the original review.Housed in the same 98-year-old Spanish Colonial Revival building as the Pasadena
Playhouse, Bar Chelou brings some welcome eccentricity to local — and regional — dining. I remember Douglas Rankin’s modernist plates at the maddeningly named, now-closedin Silver Lake, and I’m happy that he’s reunited at Bar Chelou with Raymond Morales, his pastry chef from that era. Grasp Rankin’s style in his bravura approach to vegetables. Not all of them shout “plant-based.
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