Paris Couture: Should Designers Scream or Whisper?
Yesterday, I awoke to two text messages sharing the same image, of model Irina Shayk, wearing a black column dress with a lifesize lion head in mid-roar affixed to the bodice in the Schiaparelli Spring 2023 show that opened Paris Couture Week. One text read, “LOVE!!! SLAY!!!” The other? “This is the most”—uh, well, it got somewhat unprintable from there, but let’s just say, it wasn’t pleasant.
Rarely is fashion so divisive; usually everyone either loves a collection, or ignores it. To see something cause such a fracas—one Instagram commenter suggested the house should burn the entire collection in shame, and—is testament to designer Daniel Roseberry’s outrageous creativity. Everyone pines for the outrageous clothes of McQueen, of Mugler, of Dior-era Galliano; and yet they often forget that those clothes, today, would be very controversial.
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