Rick Owens turned his models into aliens and oddballs — and they looked so glamorous
Rick Owens fall-winter 2019 collection. By Robin Givhan Robin Givhan Fashion critic Email Bio Follow Fashion critic March 1 at 11:10 AM PARIS — The models at the Rick Owens show Thursday night looked like glamorous aliens, as if creatures from some science fiction movie had wandered into the designer’s atelier and raided his sample room. Some of the women in his fall 2019 show looked deathly pale, as if every drop of blood had been sucked from their veins.
The public lives of these performers defied the mainstream, and they looked as if they had managed to free themselves of the constraints and judgments of this world. Owens also found inspiration in LeGaspi’s costumes for his men’s collection, which he presented here in January. He has also written a book about the costume designer.
As Owens’s models emerged from the theatrical clouds of smoke inside the Palais de Tokyo, their style exuded poetry. They weren’t perfectly styled, classic beauties. They were flawed. Their imperfections highlighted their individuality. Their strangeness was romanticized. If only real-life misfits and freaks were treated with such grace. Owens strayed from his typical palette of black and moss, gray and mocha.
Owens’s work is at its best when it skirts the edges of the acceptable, when it swims against mainstream palatability. He excels at veering into alternative spaces and finding elegance in the rough edges. He leans in to the contrary point-of-view. He brings out overlooked beauty and spots the coolness in an awkward gesture. He expands the definition of glamour and makes us welcome what — and who — we once might have scorned.Big ’80s shoulders are back.
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