Pioneering designer Ann Lowe’s work is finally being given the platform it deserves at this year's Met exhibition
referred to her as “society’s best-kept secret.” “I love my clothes, and I’m particular about who wears them,” Lowemagazine in 1966. “I am not interested in sewing for café society or social climbers. I do not cater to Mary and Sue. I sew for the families of the Social Register.”
It was through these circles that Lowe was first introduced to Jacqueline Kennedy’s formidable mother, Janet Lee Auchincloss, née Bouvier. Lowe designed Janet’s own wedding dress before being invited to craft a gown for her daughter. The process of creating Kennedy’s iconic outfit didn’t exactly run smoothly, however. Less than two weeks before the wedding, a flood in Lowe’s studio left the bulk of her two months of work on both Kennedy’s dress and those of her bridesmaids destroyed.
Despite the fact that Lowe’s dresses were held in high esteem by her clients, her work was often undervalued. When faced with fierce haggling from her high-society customers, Lowe was known to give in,to Miller. Once the necessary costs were factored in, she often paid out of pocket and lost money in the process. Despite her evident talents, Lowe spent much of her career mired in debt. A cream silk faille dress with embroidered floral appliqué decorations designed by Ann Lowe.
In Lowe—and in Dash’s striking cinematic staging of her gowns in the Renaissance Revival room—there couldn’t be a designer more deserving to finally get their flowers. “I like for my dresses to be admired,” Lowe told thein 1964. “I like to hear about it—the oohs and ahs as they come into the ballroom. Like when someone tells me, ‘The Ann Lowe dresses were doing all the dancing at the cotillion last night.’ That’s what I like to hear.
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