On Saturday mornings, Anthony Mangieri will transform Una Pizza Napoletana into an Italian coffee counter called Caffè Napoletana. imjasondiamond reports
Anthony Mangieri will open Caffè Napoletana this weekend.For 20 years, Anthony Mangieri’s name has been synonymous with a monastic devotion to dough. At, he became famous for his hand-mixed, wild-fermented crusts and super-puffed corniciones, but he maintains other interests as well. For example, he enjoys coffee.
When Mangieri was younger, he’d meet his friends at Italian social clubs in northern New Jersey. “The espresso was great, but nothing else was,” he says. “It was more of a hangout for guys to gamble in the back room, smoke cigarettes, and curse at each other.” But somewhere between those smoke-filled social clubs and numerous trips to Italy, Mangieri built up his caffeine tolerance and became a coffee authority too. “I’m sometimes having eight shots a day,” he says.
There is arguably too much coffee in New York, but, as Mangieri sees it, it is still very difficult to find that particularly Italian experience here, so beginning this weekend, he’s transforming Una Pizza Napoletana into a Saturday-only coffee counter called Caffè Napoletana. As with the pizzeria, the menu will be limited and attention will be paid to the smallest of details. Snack cakes come from Italy.
As always, Mangieri is chasing perfection, coffee in its purest form of excellence, what espresso zealots call the God shot. “It’s thick, it’s dense, it’s very strong, and it could be very nutty and interesting if it’s pulled properly on the right machine,” he says. For the purposes of quality control, only four people are allowed to pull shots: The manager, two of the restaurant’s trusted cooks, and, of course, Mangieri.
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