For fall 2023, Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons show a collection of clothes not just for special occasions but everyday life.
The collection reminded me of two periods in particular. The 1930s, in those beautifully shaped coats and a handful of printed silk dresses fitted through the hip that spilled out into a flippy train, like streamlined takes on an Adrian Greenburg or Jeanne Lanvin’s understated silk gowns from the beginning of that decade.
Giovanni GiannoniWhat those two periods in fashion history share, to my mind, is a commitment to beauty even as the world was sputtering into chaos. The Museum at FIT had a great exhibition about this in 2014, in fact, called “Elegance In an Age of Crisis” . I’m also thinking of Schiaparelli turning the grotesque into something fabulous in ’30s Paris, a dare for the most avant-garde women alive.
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