Daily News | Redcrest Kitchen in Queen Village is an overlooked gem working through an identity crisis
Have you ever eaten a well-crafted meal, the kind you’d expect the hungry crowds to clamor for, only to look up and realize you’re the only occupied table in a restaurant?
Redcrest’s slow start is a curious case study in the delicate art of harnessing momentum for new restaurants. Its lack of early traction appears to be the result of a combination of factors, from plain bad luck with city infrastructure to marketing mistakes. The slightly smaller plates are a good thing for Snyder, 30, whose vibrant creative impulses benefit from the size constraints. On Redcrest’s previous larger plates, there always seemed to be one too many flourishes, like a duck offal “scrapple” that lacked the typical softness of scrapple, to accompany the already busy presentation of a beautiful breast lacquered with pear and Szechuan peppercorns, duck fat beignets, liver mousse and a salad topped with shaved smoked duck hearts.
I was especially taken by the muhammara fagottini, which transformed the Middle Eastern dip into diamond-shaped golden dumplings filled with roasted red peppers, almonds and sweet-tart pomegranate molasses, artfully served over tahini and chickpeas.
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