Has Aaron Franklin’s reach exceeded his grasp with the new Uptown Sports Club?
The first time I went to Franklin Barbecue, Aaron Franklin himself served me a magnificent pulled pork sandwich out of a tiny teal trailer. It was a testament to how Franklin had mastered his craft, doing a few things extraordinarily well.
We checked out Uptown Sports Club on a Friday night double date. The four of us crammed into the tiny foyer, waiting for our turn to check in with the host. We had just enough time to order a round of drinks from the bar and take a few sips while standing awkwardly at one of two long tables right in the middle of dining room traffic before our table was ready.
We ordered two po'boys – the hot roast beef and the fried green tomato – with mixed results. The hot roast beef was loaded with shredded roast beef that was not hot but was both wet and salty. The fried green tomato, though, sang. The tomatoes were tart and tangy and held up well against the mess of mayo and shredduce on the sandwich. The Leidenheimer rolls, shipped in from Louisiana daily, were fresh and soft.
The hot roast beef po’boy was loaded with shredded roast beef that was not hot but was both wet and salty. The fried green tomato po’boy, though, sang. My burger and the fries that came with it were overcooked , and the burger was salty and tasted of old oil. My spouse's shrimp po'boy suffered from similar problems in execution: The shrimp didn't taste fresh, and the bread had spent too much time on the griddle.
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