Bill Addison reviews the excellent, austere omakase at Shin Sushi in Encino, a sushi bar experience stripped to its essence.
Chef-owner Taketoshi Azumi doesn’t pad his omakase with farmers market treasures, vegan derivations, truffle salt or A5 wagyu. His Shin Sushi in Encino is a sushi bar experience stripped to its essence. Azumi directs his energies almost solely into nigiri. His focus is a reminder that unions of fish and rice can be riveting — particularly in their subtle gradations of texture — with minimal embellishment.
His résumé includes three big local names — Asanebo, Mori and the now-closed Sushi of Gari — and he grew up in the business. His father ran a sushi bar of the same name in Tokyo.Azumi prepares only omakase for Shin’s dinner service, and the restaurant is reservation-only: Would-be customers regularly stroll through the door, only to be turned away with a gentle request to call ahead next time. The cost falls in the upper midpoint of L.A.
Azumi is a jolly figure behind the bar. He stands in its stage-right corner, always focused on the next task but bantering easily in English or Japanese. His wrist snaps twice, fast as a jolt on the chiropractor’s table, as he presses vinegared rice in his palm. He explains that, like his father, he practices Edomae sushi: He slightly ages much of the seafood, using dashi- or soy-based marinades. Little of his handiwork requires additional seasoning.
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