Critic Patricia Escárcega reviews Máquina Taco, a north Pasadena taquería with 20 tacos (and counting) on the menu.
At Máquina Taco, the tacos are rarely adorned with more than chopped cilantro and white onions, and the occasional flourish of salsa or shredded purple cabbage.
The toppings may be minimal but the taco menu is not. There are 20 tacos on offer at the small north Pasadena restaurant, including ground lamb tacos jolted with fresh mint; shredded and crisped duck slathered in sweet hoisin sauce; and a chicken-bacon-jalapeño taco that reads like a riff on a club sandwich.A serial restaurateur, Lukasiewicz, by his count, has opened 15 restaurants in 35 years.
Located on a freshly gentrified strip of Lake Avenue, Máquina Taco is a spartan space with cerulean blue walls, shiny concrete floors and plywood fixtures that Lukasiewicz built himself. Chapulines tacos are some of the best I’ve bumped into around the city: pure crunch, salt and citrusy spice, the fried grasshoppers served over a thin line of chopped cabbage that amplifies their brittle pleasures. Cabeza is melty and rich but also brutishly unctuous on a recent visit. Oxtails and lengua are velvet-soft, a deeply earthy pairing that will resonate with lovers of both ingredients.
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