Los Angeles-based executive chef Jason Neroni has conceived a savory menu at the Kimpton Alma hotel eatery that celebrates local produce and proteins
Chef Jason Neroni’s seasonal menu, created with locally grown, farmed and fished ingredients, is filled with savory and surprising dishes that may sound like the food on every other San Diego restaurant menu — but they’re not.Yes, there’s a Brussels sprouts appetizer, but it’s served in a belly-warming dashi broth with Japanese curry and a poached egg. There’s also a pan-roasted octopus entrée, but it’s glazed with vibrant oyster sauce and chorizo emulsion.
Back in 2009, Neroni was one of New York’s “Rising Star Chefs” when he left the Big Apple to return to his native Southern California so he could focus on raising his young son.and wowed diners with an ambitious, multicourse tasting menu that San Diego diners weren’t quite ready for at the time. Among the dishes I remember on his constantly reinvented Blanca menu was an early version of his Brussels sprouts in dashi broth, but with a slow-cooked duck egg and crispy garlic chips.
Neroni’s decades-long passion for pasta-making is also worth exploring in dishes like his decadent housemade bucatini pasta with nduja vodka sauce, lobster claws, pickled chiles, fresh basil and herb-toasted breadcrumbs. Another winner is the spaghetti with hearty oxtail ragu, whipped crème fraîche and pecorino cheese.
And if you saved room for pastry chef Erin Steidley’s delicate desserts, try the Napoleon pastry filled with poached pears and vanilla bean Anglaise and a side of burnt honey ice cream, candied hazelnuts, pomegranate seeds and fried sage leaf. It’s one of the best desserts I’ve had in months.
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