Review: Hayat’s Kitchen, starring Lebanese meats and sweets, goes Hollywood

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Review: Hayat’s Kitchen, starring Lebanese meats and sweets, goes Hollywood
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.BillAddison's approach to Lebanese restaurants: 'When you find a good one, gather as many people as you can corral and then order as many dishes as the table can fit.'

recipe into tapered croquettes, studded with pine nuts. A buzzing fragrance of allspice hits the olfactory system when you break open Fahed and Shatila’s version; dip it in unstrained yogurt for cooling contrast. This is my favorite savory dish at Hayat’s Kitchen. If I were dining solo I’d order the friedTo skip to the finale: The selection of sweets also distinguishes Hayat’s Kitchen. It’s a family tradition. Hassan Shatila’s brother, Riad , founded Shatila Bakery in Dearborn, Mich., in 1979.

This second outpost of Hayat’s Kitchen, easily three times the size of the North Hollywood original, stands alone on a wide, calm stretch of Cahuenga Boulevard. Shatila took over the space in mid-November; corners of the dining room, which include a bar and the pastry counter, aren’t fully stocked yet.All in all, the place feels like it’s still coming together. In a phone interview, Shatila said he plans to rev up the baking program in coming weeks, including making fresh pita .

I keep winding back to meat-centric dishes, including a fine array of kebabs. Vegetable dishes are generally unexceptional. Honestly, I find this to be the case in most of the area’s Lebanese restaurants. Lebanon’s eastern perch on the Mediterranean Sea gifts the country with a mild, ample growing climate, not unlike Central California’s. A beautiful straightforwardness characterizes Lebanese vegetable cookery. Much of it thrums with olive oil; clouds of spice never overshadow the flavors of the eggplant or greens or fresh beans.

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