Review: Is this the best barbecue brisket in Los Angeles?

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Review: Is this the best barbecue brisket in Los Angeles?
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Is this the best bbq brisket in L.A.? Review and photo by BillAddison.

A staffer behind the counter at Slab Barbecue plunks down a mass wrapped in thick, crinkled butcher paper. He unwraps the package, his gloves now slick with grease, and lifts out a blackened lobe of brisket. Then, knife in hand, he poses a universal question of brisket — certainly one spoken by barbecue practitioners all over the country who’ve been gripped by the wonders of Texas-style meats.

Burt Bakman, the pit master behind Slab, spent nearly 10 years perfecting his smoking technique on a Big Green Egg in his Studio City backyard. His primary career had been in real estate; during a conference in Austin he found himself far more consumed with Central Texas barbecue than property sales strategies. In 2016 Bakman began posting about the brisket and ribs he was covertly offering under the Instagram handle Trudy’s Underground Barbecue.

Next to his signature brisket, Bakman’s forte is pork spare ribs: crackly, ruddy, the meat appealingly taut and direct in its smokiness. He also sells consummate baby back ribs sticky with sauce, the pork barely clinging to the bone as is the fashion with this cut. I prefer ribs that involve more tug.On weekends Bakman sells hulking beef short ribs.

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