Kyoten Next Door is more than a sushi sequel. It's a brilliant new restaurant from Chicago's best sushi chef, Otto Phan.
Chef Otto Phan at Kyoten Next Door, located at 2513 W. Armitage Ave., in Chicago's Logan Square neighborhood, on Aug. 24, 2023.
But if this is owner Otto Phan’s second restaurant, how can it be such a pleasant, well-run operation? It started the moment I opened the door.
Smartly, Phan asked Yang to help design the new space, and the result is even lovelier. Expensive sushi restaurants tend to pass off a frigid and steely atmosphere as artful minimalism, but Kyoten Next Door exudes a calm warmth. Though not quite at the absurd level of precision found at The Omakase Room at Sushi-San, it’s still a pleasure to spend a couple hours here eating mostly raw fish.Along with the lower price, Phan wants customers to know the key differences between his two restaurants.
Where most omakase restaurants wind down the meal with a succession of progressively fattier cuts of tuna, Kyoten Next Door brilliantly subverts this by putting them in the middle. “If you just go lightest to heaviest, it’s going to be really boring,” Phan said. “People can be too full to appreciate the most prized pieces.” Chefs with long tasting menus, take note.
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