Bill Addison reviews the haute French cooking at Dave Beran's Pasjoli in Santa Monica
French restaurants have made a sweeping return in the United States over the last five years, and by that I meanFrench restaurants. France as the synonym for culinary excellence began fading in the 1990s, as chefs of many heritages slowly began shaping a more holistic identity of American dining culture. French influence — its techniques, its kitchen brigade system, its most decorated figures — never left. But menus anchored by mother sauces and soufflés became, in a word, passé.
In 2017 Beran opened Dialogue, the 18-seat modernist feat hidden behind a locked door on the second floor of a food court on the Third Street Promenade. It ranks as one of the country’s most thrillingly cerebral tasting-menu experiences, but it wasn’t the place Beran initially planned to create when he moved to Los Angeles from Chicago in 2016. He’d intended to open a dual restaurant downtown: casual French on one side, a tasting-menu adjunct on the other to be called Jolie.
Beran was previously executive chef at Chicago’s Next, the Grant Achatz restaurant that changes menus and concepts entirely four times a year. Its first menu, back in 2011, was called “Paris: 1906,” channeling Escoffier and Cesar Ritz the year they opened the eponymous hotel. The Next team prepared an extravagant version of caneton Rouennais à la presse from “Le Guide Culinaire.
Foie de poulet à la Strasbourgeoise, or chicken liver stuffed in brioche and covered in shaved truffles.
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