Strong pastas and perfect ice cream at Antico — who could ask for more? Review by lucaspeterson.
The first Cheesecake Factory restaurant opened in Beverly Hills in 1978 and now has over 200 locations. With everything from Tex-Mex eggrolls to Thai lettuce wraps, it captures the essence of America — the good and the bad — in one over-the-top dining experience.
That trap has been successfully avoided, although the restaurants are quite different. While I love the clubby feel of Chi Spacca , I don’t need a 42-ounce dry-aged steak on the regular menu . Antico has less going on in the ambience department but makes up for it with a more well-rounded menu of Italian fare that is often creative and occasionally inspires.
When I was a kid, I’d frequently boil whatever pasta was in the cupboard after school, melt a few pats of butter into it, drown it in Kraft Parmesan cheese, and then go watch a “Perfect Strangers” marathon or something. Thewith butter and Vacche Rosse Parmesan at Antico takes me back to that time as well as any dish I’ve had: a rich, comforting, creamy mess of sense memory.
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